The Thousands

It's hard to say exactly when, but a while ago an almighty force slammed the 'pause' button on Adelaide. An impasse that in the last few years or so has been quietly lifted. "It's a good time to be in Adelaide" echoes around on glitched repeat. Urban renewal projects like Renew Adelaide are turning run-down spaces into places of cultural venture. Young creative up-starts launch new art galleries and small businesses - proving that there really is more to Gen Y than apathy and irony. The CBD still struggles with the '9-to-5 city' tag but most of the people saying so aren't hanging around long enough to see the action. Inclusive and dynamic, it's the new generation that won't allow for another pause. A lot of people are simultaneously pissed and sad that a lot of their friends have moved to Melbourne. The civic equivalent of penis envy is weakening. The long popular East End is laden with the bars, cafes and retailers it has always had but new kids are moving in. Tucked in behind the East's Rundle Street, down the side street nooks and in spots like Ebenezer Place, a new story is forming. One of vitality and culture, where the ironed-on business end blends with fresh and hip young retailers and creatives. Where new eateries present more than the standard 'al fresco' and indie stores banish the chain stores to the suburban malls. While in the West - the greater victim of the 'pause' which still holds its seediness like a used sock - art galleries, collectives and start-up businesses, where micro shines brighter, dot the scene. You'll find the arts crowd down this way, with Magazine, Format, Coffee Branch, Paper String Plastic, and the aEaf just the tip. The Central Market and Gouger Street are still the places for amazing food. The beaches are still great if that's your thing. The 'Old Adelaide' posse continue to silently rule much of the inner suburbs. There's still only the one tram but it's a bit longer now. The suburbs still sprawl north and south. But the arrythmic heart - the CBD - is getting better. Getting Around FROM THE AIRPORT Adelaide Airport is only 5.7kms from the CBD. That's close! The cheapest way to the CBD is an Adelaide Metro bus for just $4.60 per ticket valid for 2 hours afterwards. Otherwise, it's a taxi for $15 or a Skylink bus for $10 one way or $16 return. IN THE CITY Once in the city, Adelaide is walkable. Out of puff? The city loop bus (99C) is free and so is the tram from West Terrace to South Terrace. Both are zippy options, but even better are the City Bikes. Located at nodes around town, all bikes are free including helmet and lock, and all you need is ID to hire. Thankfully the city is flat, so you don't need legs of steel, and if you get a puncture Bicycle SA will bail you out. IN THE BURBS The Adelaide Metro is famously fragmented. Trains run North, South and West, but they're by no means comprehensive. The voids the lines don't cover are filled by buses, including Adelaide's German-designed buses-on-tracks quirk, the O-Bahn. The city tram runs to the beach at Glenelg too. BUDGET AIRLINES Virgin Australia, Jetstar and Tiger Airways all fly to Adelaide on the cheap.