· Monday September 1, 2014

Doughnuts made with love and stuffed with the most excellent, delicious options. Bounty, Mint Slice, apple crumble and pumpkin were on offer when we dropped in. Doughnuts are the main feature of Small-fry, but it'd be an oversight to suggest that's all that this rather lovely place has to offer. You could go there on your way to work at 8am and not even guess they'll be open for a snack and a beer on Friday evening.

The space is great. There's a big central stone bar where chef Rhys cooks up the food right in front of you, slicing pork belly with a magnificent yellow meat slicer. He chats while he cooks, and why not – he's right there. Of course there's a few sneaky corner tables as well but there's something that's very like being in a mate's kitchen at a lazy party where it's all about great snacks and hilarious banter. At least that's how I felt while I was hanging out and discussing Simpsons episodes (Rhys has about the coolest Simpsons tattoo I've ever seen), while people bought the excellent coffee (roasted by Ritual Coffee, a crew out of Launceston) through a window facing the street. The doughnuts quickly disappeared.

Small-fry's glazed doughnuts do stand out as a unique thing for Hobart's food scene, and they're made fresh daily. Just get in early if you want one (and you do, they're awesome) because these delights sell out by midday.

There's other stuff going on at Small-fry too, like the pork belly slider that surprises with how filling it is. The menu is varied, the coffee's great, there's some nice craft beers and good wine for the later openings (the kitchen cranks up again Thursday to Saturday evenings so drop in for a bevvy and a bite). Small-fry is homely, fresh and fun.