· Thursday April 4, 2013

Note the lack of a space. We're not talking about the racist caricature Dr Fu Manchu created by Sax Rohmer. We're talking about Fumanchu, a new restaurant in Preston created by Marten Chu (owner of the old Breadwell Cafe in Flinders Lane and the brother, incidentally, of Nga Chu of Miss Chu).

Boothy and I stopped by for breakfast and were pleased to see Melbourne breakfast's eggy hegemony overturned at the venue. Though not completely; free-rangers on sourdough are available. However - in the face of black sticky rice, omelettes with lap cheong, okonomiyaki with smoked salmon and meatball Bánh Mì - they'd be a doggedly boring choice. The lunch and dinner menu speaks Vietnamese, mixed with some of that broadly Asian vernacular Melbourne restaurants do so well. Pad thai and mee goreng coexisting with pho and com tam.

The interior is large and open, busy with colour and flowers. Overall, it feels a welcome, contemporary addition to a quiet pocket of the northside. This sort of thing keeps up and people will actually want to live in Preston. Kidding Preston, I'm just jealous. Pissed that there's nowhere to get dried scallop and quail egg congee for breakfast in my subterranean bunker.