Bread and Circus Wholefoods Canteen
published on 25th January, 2012

The people behind Bread and Circus like adjectives. On a menu built around utter respect for the vegetable, Bullet chilli is ‘brave’, eggplant is ‘lazy’, granola is ‘crunchy’, Bircher is ‘brilliant’ and even more curiously, coconut is ‘quiet’ and fresh fruit is ‘finicky’.

Menu prose aside, this high-ceilinged warehouse (neighbour to Campos coffee) is a temple for vegans/vegetarians, wholefood-enthusiasts, ethical omnivores, or those suffering from a post-indulgence bout of meat guilt. Or maybe you just like to eat your greens.

Who wouldn’t, when they take the shape of agave-caramelised brown pears with puy lentils and blue cheese, Wagyu kale (Yes Wagyu kale!) or miso baked eggplant with yuzu and coriander. There is some meat, mostly sandwiched, but their ways with vegetables are the way to go.

A list of teas is curated with the attention to balance and provenance that a sommelier would take with a wine list, a full spectrum is provided between ‘an incredibly gentle Oolong with a faint echo of melon’ to a ‘complex, rich, malty and grounding Yunnan Red’.

It’s a mega-friendly operation, that can edge towards chaotic. But those are just some adjectives for you.

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