The Thousands

Pre-empting our cry for small bars by opening about a year ago, Mission bravely adopted the mould of a restaurant-come-bar-come-art-gallery. Located on an appealingly innocuous side street, in an old Gothic Revival church sandwiched between former warehouses, Mission channels Lower East Side hidden chic almost too well.

On every visit I’ve been warmly received, and felt comfortable to be as sophisticated or casual as the evening warranted. Not that they’re mutually exclusive: things get increasingly casual after a few Negronis. The current winter menu is honest, Mediterranean-influenced fare, and the rotating wine list is always a tight little selection.

While bearing the tedium of state bureaucracy in the wait for Sydney’s dining and drinking potential to improve, we should be thankful for places like this.