The Roosevelt
published on 1st February, 2012

The Roosevelt is something of a local legend in these parts. These parts being Kings Cross, and The Roosevelt being the club owned by Sydney underlord, Abe “awesome name” Saffron.

The Roosevelt may have had a certain heyday, but its 2012 reinvention is a pretty slick operation. It’s classic in look, but there are bells and whistles to be found in the form of some grade-A sciencey stuff going on behind the bar. And not just behind the bar; clouds of liquid nitrogen billow out from a custom-built cocktail trolley that’s been wearing a track into the carpet. So much, in fact, that since their first week they’ve had to triple their liquid nitrogen order and are now pretty sure that the only place who tops it is St Vincent’s Hospital.

At these prices you probably won’t make a night of it, but treat it like theatre and sit back and enjoy the spectacle. The serious mixing skills will come as no surprise to Eau de Vie devotees, but there’s more in store. A degustation menu with matching cocktails will begin soon in the back room, in addition to a bar menu that’s equal parts ambitious and ambiguous (“confit flavours wrapped in a light and airy presentation” – pardon?).

One of the drink descriptions – The Martini of Tomorrow – references taking a joyride in the DeLorean and bringing back a cocktail from the future. It’s a pretty apt metaphor for the whole place. The dapper staff and old-school club vibe may tell one story, but then there’s that nitrogenised cocktail trolley parked in the corner, the DeLorean that’ll deliver you back to the future.

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