The Thousands

The deciduous crowd who turn up whenever anything opens in Sydney turned up here on Friday night. But the opening of a new venture from the Gazebo peeps was always going to see that happen. The remarkable thing is that, over the boorish din, The Winery proved why it’s going to be one of the more popular places for a long hot minute.

It has one of the better fit outs I’ve seen in a while: a raw reverence for its former Sydney Water Workshop housing is complemented by the luscious botanical-taxidermy melange employed at Gazebo. Quietly ostentatious leathering and fit-outs cleverly juxtapose in the big, airy main room, and add to the slightly more refined vibe upstairs.**The wine list was always going to be impressive. It’s an exhaustive selection of old and new world, with an impressive number (50+) available by the glass thanks to the enomatic system in place.

The menu blends largely French and Italian in a ‘modern’ way, if you’ll excuse the euphemism: less rich and more suited to our clime. The mint and pine nut lamb burger a perfect example.

Opening night was booked out, and with summer on the way and The Winery’s sunny-but-secluded location, I don’t see that theme changing. Better get in early.