The Thousands

For a couple of decades there, Sydney traded on its looks - pointing at the Bridge, at the Opera House, at Bondi. 'Come ogle me!' It was a Caligula, grandiose and perverted, and degenerately magnificent.

Then recently, a collective realisation took hold. Mere facade was no longer acceptable, as heritage and integrity - not just advance - was once again valued in cities the world over. How long could Sydney's strut last? The response to this is a commitment to details, and an idea of Sydney as part of the world, not apart from the world. Experimentation and entrepreneurialism is rewarded as the city redefines itself. Shoebox bars occupy old shops and studios through Surry Hills and Darlinghurst; the rail yards in Eveleigh host markets and theatre; Sydney's lionised dining scene is no longer exclusive to those on a cocaine budget. An intimate, individual experience of the city becomes so much easier. By all means, climb the Bridge, take in a concert, and swim at Bondi. But then walk down a pokey, leafy street for the best coffee in the world, and dip into an alley for a short drink. Walk up some stairs to find classically trained chefs serving street food. Catch theatre in a pub basement. Jump off a boardwalk into the harbour.

The hookers still call out on Darlinghurst Road, the tanned set still pack Bondi balconies for riesling lunches. Suits still drop thousands in bad city bars, and the junkies remained rusted to Oxford Street. It wouldn't be Sydney without this. But, off to the side, and moving faster, so many clever people are throwing the right type of stuff at Sydney's cultural fabric to render it a Pollock, now so much more than just a beautiful mess.

Getting Around

FROM THE AIRPORT

Sydney Airport isn't far from central Sydney. A train service is available, but unless you're staying in the outer suburbs, taking a cab is a lot more convenient and not much more expensive. In fact, if you're a group staying in or near the city, splitting a cab is generally a lot cheaper than buying individual train tickets.

IN THE CITY

If walking is your thing, Sydney is a great place to do it. The city ring suburbs (Ultimo, Pyrmont, Redfern, Surry Hills, Paddington, Darlinghurst, East Sydney) are all former working class suburbs with small, pleasant streets liberally dosed with cafes, bars and shops. If you're willing to brave the hills, cycling is an option - hire a vintage bike from The Humble Vintage. A network of dedicated bike paths have just been put in to ease this means of travel.

IN THE BURBS

Sydney metro transit is a temperamental thing. Bus services provide reasonable coverage throughout the city and Eastern Suburbs, but can be overcrowded in peak hour. Travelling to the North Shore or western suburbs is best done by train. Use the 131500 website to plan your trip, check travel times, and avoid problems like sparse services on Sundays. Sydney has plenty of cabs, and most know the city well enough, but they can be expensive. Post-1am, cabs are the best option.

BUDGET AIRLINES

Most major airlines will get you to or from Melbourne or Canberra in under 90 minutes. Getting here from regional cities is easy with REX.